Can My Bearded Dragon Accessories Be Dish Soap Cleaned?

You spent a lot of time for choosing the best bearded dragon accessories for your sweet little pet. If you have invested so much time in choosing them, then keeping it clean and sanitized is also important for your beardie’s health. 

Can My Bearded Dragon Accessories Be Dish Soap Cleaned

If you are wondering how you can clean the tank with soap, then the answer is yes. You can use dish soap mixed in water to clean the enclosure. When you are using any product, you need to make sure that you are rinsing the tank/ cage/ enclosure properly, and there is no residue left on the surface.  

How you can clean your bearded dragon’s tank?

Remove feces daily

You don’t have to clean the whole habitat every day but cleaning the environment of the habitat is essential to be cleaned daily. Just like humans, your beardie also needs to have his regular bowels to be out of the body. 

Unlike humans, they don’t have a specific space to excrete their feces. And when there are feces in their tank, it would smell and wouldn’t be suitable for your beardie. So clean it out every day is suggested. 

There can be uneaten food lying around too, that is also a waste because it can’t be used again, so cleaning it is also necessary.

 Clean surfaces weekly

If you have a glass tank for your beardie, you should clean its surfaces in a weekly manner. This is because glass has the tendency to get dirty quickly, and you don’t want any dirt near your bearded dragon. 

You probably also have the best bearded dragon accessories in the tank, so you should clean their surfaces also on a weekly basis. When you clean the surfaces weekly, you can go through the whole cleaning process once in a month, and you and your beardie are good to go.

Full habitat cleaning each month

It would be best if you cleaned full-habitat once in a month. This includes every little thing that is included in the habitat. For knowing the steps of how to clean full-habitat of enclosures, you should read on the following steps: 

Put beardie in another enclosure

 When you are starting the process of cleaning, you should keep your bearded dragon in a temporary enclosure. It is for the safety of your beardie so that he doesn’t go wandering here and there and put himself in any danger.

Remove all the accessories

 Remove all the best bearded dragon accessories that you bought and put them in a bleach-water or dish-soap and water solution to clean them for 10-20 minutes. 

After soaking them, you should brush them and rinse them properly until there is no odor left. Now you can let it air dry before putting it back in the enclosure.

Vacuum clean the enclosure

 By vacuum cleaning the enclosure, you will be able to clean any debris on the enclosure’s surface. That can also get any waste or food waste that you may have missed.

Scrub it all

Scrubbing doesn’t mean you are only doing the outside surface; you have to clean it all. It includes corners and bottom too and all the inside surfaces. You can use bleach-water, which also includes a bit of dish soap solution in it, to clean the enclosure. Don’t be cheap at using the solution; use a generous amount because you need the enclosure clean and healthy for your beardie.

Rinse and rinse

You need to rinse the enclosure properly so that there is no residual odor of the solution. You can rinse numerous times and get it clean.

Pat dry with a cloth

You can use a nice micro-fiber cloth or towel to dry the surface so that there are no water streaks on the surface.

Put all the accessories back

 Put all the accessories that you cleaned and are the best bearded dragon accessories back in the enclosure. You should also add fresh water to the water dish for your adorable beardie. And keep the temperature favorable before you place your bearded dragon again in the tank.

What are the signs of illness in your beardie?

No pooping

if your bearded dragon is not pooping and it has been several days, you should give him a warm bath. If there is no visible change, then you should call the vet to check on him.

Jerky movements

 If your beardie is not walking properly or you are seeing any bumps on the legs, there could be a lack of Vitamin D, which can cause weakened bones. 

Mouth rot

 If you are seeing a lack of appetite and swollen mouth or a yellow or white-colored substance around the mouth, then there could be a problem of mouth rot. You can also buy stimulants for his appetite to make him better. 

Breathing difficulty

 If your beardie is breathing with his mouth open, then that is because he is having any  problem in breathing. Another sign can be mucus around his nostrils. When breathing is difficult, the beard area will also seem a little puffy, so you should get that checked out as soon as possible.


 When a bearded dragon shows any sign of wrinkled skin, sunken eyes, and after drinking the water, he is perking the neck up, these can be the sign that he is suffering from dehydration.

This can also make your beardie less active, and there will be no sign of energy in him. The skin will get loose, and that is not a good sign. You can help him drink more and more water with the help of a syringe, and you can also use any eye dropper to help him drink water.


When there is a change in the diet, and then you see any runny poop, that is normal. But when there is no change in the diet but there he is showing signs of runny poop, you must take him to the wet because that indicates some worms or parasites.

What a Squirrel Should and Shouldn’t Eat?

Owning a lovely squirrel is the trend of most young people today. A squirrel is a very smart and agile pet. It certainly will not let you down in any of those attributes. If you have or are planning to raise a squirrel – which is by far, the best pet on the planet, then let’s see what squirrels eat.

Outstanding characteristics of the ground squirrel

What a Squirrel Should and Shouldn't Eat

Unlike other pets like dogs and cats, the squirrel has its own cuteness. The squirrel has a brown coat, with striped hips, a cream-colored belly, that can be either yellow or white, and ruffled tail furs. They are very adaptable to most environments, they are quite funny and generally approachable. You will be surprised by how clever and mischievous they can be. Often running and climbing, especially all over their owner, they will dance after being fed, and just like other pets squirrels will also wait for their owner at the door in anticipation of their return home.

You can easily train them to obey or run until they hear you call … When squirrels become familiar with their owner, they can be very flattering. It is nothing strange for when you are sad, that the squirrels become the place for you to vent your frustration.

Squirrels are very adaptable to various environments

According to the advice of people well experienced in soil care and squirrels, it is best to take care of them before they open their eyes. You should not be afraid because squirrels are easy to raise and adapt quickly to the environment, so raising a baby is not difficult.

A mature squirrels’ diet

What a Squirrel Should and Shouldn't Eat

Vegetables and nuts are squirrel’s favorite food

When the squirrels have matured, their food becomes more diverse. Vegetables like tomatoes, carrots, salads, are good sources of vitamins for squirrels. Fruits squirrels like are mainly bananas, apples, pears, papayas, kiwis, etc. You should also include legumes for them, mainly nuts because they like to eat nuts.

Additionally, you should add insects to their diet. Insects such as worms, silkworm pupae, and butterflies. However, the ratio of animal food should not be higher than 30% of the diet of the squirrel.

Foods that should not be fed to squirrels

• Foods that irritate the digestive system should not be fed to squirrels. Foods such as onions, garlic, pepper, etc.
• Fresh milk does not appear to adversely affect squirrels, however, soymilk should not be fed to soil squirrels as these can easily cause diarrhea.
• Do not give squirrels foods that have been processed with excess fat.

How Should a Hamster Cage Be Set Up?

up a hamster cage professionally unless you become familiar with some important steps used to set up a hamster cage. Everyone knows how important this cage is to provide a house to the hamsters. Being a pet owner, it is your interest and need that can determine the overall setup process. Sometimes, you can give preference to the plastic made hamsters, and sometimes you choose the wire hamsters. There are some pet owners who prefer aquarium tanks to house their hamsters.

In the starting, you need to know that the hamsters are always loved by adults and teenagers who have a habit of keeping pets. In addition, you already know how quick and energetic creatures are when they start digging and burrowing. Hamsters are very clean and hygienic animals, and when you want to keep them, you should have the best hamster cage for them.

In easy words, your hamsters need a very peaceful and enjoyable environment, so that they can save free from stress and boredom. This is why purchasing a hamster cage is very important. It somehow, you can purchase a hamster case easily, but the real problems start when it comes to setting up the hamster cage.

Factors to consider while buying hamster cagesHow Should a Hamster Cage Be Set Up

Now, you have successfully determined how you should set a hamster cage. Consequently, you need to talk about some important factors that should be there in your mind while purchasing the hamster cages. You need to ensure that the size of the selected hamster cage should not be too small. The cage should have a sufficient amount of space and floor space so that your Hamsters can feel comfortable.

Secondly, you need to determine the type of Hamster cage you are ready to buy. In the similar situation, you need to consider the efforts you have to put for cleaning the home of your hamsters. By comparing the reviews and buying prices of Hamster cages, you can easily pick the best hamster cage.

How hamster cages should be set up?

Purchase a nice and large hamster cage

First and foremost, you need to buy a nice and large hamster cage according to your needs and budget you have made. It should have minimum 450Sq-inches of floorspace. As you want your hamsters to feel comfortable and restful, this is the first decisive thing you have to do without any doubt. When you choose a small cage, these creatures will not get the desired amount of comfort they always want to get.

On the other hand, you also have an alternative of purchasing used hamster cage. By purchasing a second hand cage, you will save some money and you can easily prepare this cage to home your hamsters.

Choose the bedding for cageHow Should a Hamster Cage Be Set Up

While choosing the best bedding for your hamster cage, you should always avoid the cedar, pine, or scented bedding. It means you have to choose ideal bedding for the best hamster cage you have chosen for your hamsters.

According to the experts, you should place two inches of bedding in the new house of your hamsters. You can give directions to the premium quality paper wedding. In addition, you have the alternative of using hardwood shavings as well as the crumpled paper bedding.

Where you will place the hamster cage?

After purchasing the desirable cage and bedding for it now, you have to determine the area where you want to place this cage. It is suggested that you should choose a place that is free from extreme heat. It you should also not put this cage near to any draughty place. As you already know, these steps are extremely sensitive to the light, you cannot afford to put this cage into a room where light comes more.

Add toys that hamsters can chewHow Should a Hamster Cage Be Set Up

Now, this is the perfect situation for you to add some toys into the hamster cage that your hamsters can easily chew them up. First of all, you can talk about the wooden blocks that the Hamsters would love to play with and chew. In the similar way, you can consider the chew sticks that your Hamsters might like more. These are some of the items that will keep the little creatures busy inside the cage. In the best hamster cage, these chew toys should always be there.

Utilize exercise wheels

When you are setting up a new home or cage for your hamsters, this is another important suggestion you have to utilize at the moment. In easy words, you want to keep your hamsters away from any kind of stress and boredom that they can get into the cage. This is why the experts suggest you to use exercise wheels that will prevent the boredom. In addition, you can talk about utilizing a hamster ball, which can be another efficient option to keep the hamsters happy and pleased.

Put up the water sources

In the same situation, you need to consider the setting of the water source that will let the Hamsters drink water whenever they need. Moreover, you should be worried about the availability of water in the water bowl you will attached to the Hamster cage.

Add the food bowls

Now, this is the perfect time for you to add the food bowls to the Hamster cage you have selected. This is another important process you have to follow.

Provide some hide placesHow Should a Hamster Cage Be Set Up

Last but not least, you should not forget to provide more hiding places to your Hamsters. You can choose a cardboard tunnel or any other alternative you have in this situation. To set up the best hamster cage, this will be the last process.

Hopefully, you will review the mentioned above suggestions and tips when it comes to setting up a hamster cage like the professionals. If you will follow the mentioned steps one by one carefully, you will not take enough or more time to set up a hamster cage.


Truer words were never spoken, because being an informed owner truly means being that dog’s true, best friend.

An alarming number of dogs are abandoned, surrendered, and euthanized each year in this country. The reasons are many, but one of the greatest contributing factors is the failure of too many potential owners to educate themselves fully BEFORE acquiring a dog.

The educated ones would know to thoroughly familiarize themselves with the breed they’re considering, including the breed’s physical description and personality, trainability and exercise requirements, health issues, and general care and grooming.

They would know there’s no such thing as TOO much information. The more informed they are, the more informed their decision.

They would know to choose a breed that fits in with their particular lifestyle, needs and expectations. Examples. No high shedding dogs in a home of allergy sufferers. No hyperactive or high energy dogs in a small apartment. No dogs who can’t get along with cats or any other family pets. No dogs in need of constant companionship if there is no one at home during the day.

They would know that, whatever the breed, raising a dog from puppy hood is, like raising a child, not a hobby or a sometime thing but a full time, fully committed responsibility.

They would know that puppies must be housetrained promptly and socialized early in order for them to develop into well-behaved and friendly dogs with good bite inhibition.

They would know to always be consistent, that discipline does NOT mean punishment, and that love, in and of itself, does NOT conquer all.

They would also know that certified trainers and supervised puppy classes can be of crucial help to them in raising calm and balanced dogs if they’re unable to manage on their own.

On the flip side are the uninformed and uneducated owners. The ones who, ruled by their hearts and not their heads, choose poorly from the start. The ones who, sadly and all too frequently, raise untrained, ill-mannered and often dangerous dogs.

These are the dogs who, over time, will prove too much for their ill-equipped and increasingly frustrated owners. These are the dogs who will eventually be abandoned in empty lots or left by the side of the road. These are the dogs who will be deposited outside a local pound or shelter or, if they’re lucky, surrendered to a rescue organization.

These are the dogs who will be adopted – and probably returned – by unsuspecting people intent on doing the right thing by not buying from a pet store or an unscrupulous breeder. These are the dogs who, more than likely, will be euthanized due to overcrowded facilities or because of their own people-biting or dog-aggressive behaviors.

These are the unfortunate innocents who will pay with their lives for their owners’ unfortunate ignorance. Thereby perpetuating an all-too-familiar and vicious cycle. And the only way to break this cycle is to turn every potential dog owner into an informed and educated dog owner.

Remember that the dog YOU ultimately choose is counting on you.


It’s H-I-P To Adopt

Based in Louisville KY, Hand-In-Paw Rescue is a 501(c)3 non-profit rescue dedicated to pulling pregnant dogs, nursing Moms and her babies and orphaned pups. We save our dogs from local shelters in Jefferson County 
and surrounding counties. 
Our goal is to stop the cycle of unwanted litters and to educate the public on the importance of spaying and neutering.


As the days grow darker and shorter, and the thermometer plummets, so does the mood of millions of people living in the Northern Hemisphere. But humans are not the only ones affected by what scientists refer to as Seasonal Affective Disorder or SAD. Our dogs – even the happiest, most active and energetic ones — can suffer the same dramatic downturn in mood.
In some veterinary studies, one third of the dog owners surveyed reported a steep plunge in their dogs’ otherwise happy and balanced personalities during the winter. According to them, nearly half of their dogs were less active, while half of them slept longer and were more difficult to rouse in the morning.
The British veterinary organization PDSA (People’s Dispensary for Sick Animals) recently listed some of the symptoms displayed by dogs suffering from SAD. They include aggressive behavior or soiling inappropriately, clawing at the furniture, either demanding more attention or appearing withdrawn, frequent barking, lethargy, less interest in going for walks or playing either with people, other dogs or toys, and reduced appetite accompanied by weight loss.
According to scientists, the reason for these behavioral changes in both humans and dogs appears to stem from the effect that light has on two significant hormones. The first is melatonin, produced in the pineal gland. The second is serotonin, produced in the brain.
Melatonin, often referred to as the “hormone of darkness”, plays a vital role in regulating the sleep cycle. The pineal gland is light sensitive, and because melatonin is usually secreted at night, the less light there is – as in the shorter, darker days of winter — the greater the production of melatonin. Key among its many, negative effects: lethargy, loss of appetite and sleepiness.
Serotonin, often referred to as the “feel good” substance in the brain also affects mood, appetite and sleep – but in an entirely different way. In this case, it’s sunlight that’s needed for the production of serotonin.
There are ways, however, to combat the effects of daylight’s diminishing hours on your dog’s mood before the full onset of winter. Begin by ensuring that his regular exercise regime is maintained and that his diet is well balanced. If your dog is already exhibiting signs of lethargy or withdrawal, talk constantly and comfortingly to him, and play games — such as hiding his favorite toys or tug-o-war — to keep him active and engaged. Studies show that dogs left alone most of the day are those who suffer the most. To rectify this, spend more time with your dog if possible. Otherwise, hire a dog walker or place him in doggy daycare.
Since the absence of bright light seems to be the major cause of SAD, the other solutions involve raising your dog’s direct exposure to as much light as possible. Place his bed close to a window or glass door. Change the schedule of his walks so that he is outside during the brightest portion of the day, and keep the lights on inside, particularly on the dullest days.
Ultimately, though, it’s the composition of the light that matters most. The more closely it resembles natural daylight, the more therapeutic it is. Just as there are specially designed “light boxes” for people with SAD, there are now similar light boxes for dogs. Owners opting for less expensive solutions need simply replace old, tungsten light bulbs with new, compact white fluorescent ones, labeled either “full spectrum” or “daylight.” Turn these lights on for at least an hour each day, then play with your dog to ensure his eyes are fully open and both retinas clearly exposed to the incoming light.
Hopefully, following all or some of these suggestions will spare both you and your beloved dog an unnecessary case of the winter blues.


Why adopt a rescue pup or dog? Why not buy one from an ad on the Internet or from a pet store? Why not buy one from a breeder? There are many reasons — all of them humane.

The growth of the Internet has spurred the growth of ads selling pets. But it also provides anonymity to a more insidious growth: that of puppy mills and so-called “backyard” breeders. It helps them avoid accountability when they sell unhealthy or mistreated pets to unsuspecting, over-eager buyers. And it only serves to confirm the axiom: “buyer beware.”

Each time a dog is bought from an ad on the Internet, a homeless dog is left without a home.

Many pet stores rely on both puppy mills and “backyard” breeders. Like the Internet, they rely on impulse buying. A child ogles a playful puppy through a pane of glass, and that old song, “How Much Is That Doggy in the Window?” begins. Few parents can refuse the insistent “Please! Please! Please!” of their children.

Each time a puppy is bought from a pet store, a surrendered dog languishes in a shelter.

There may be thousands of legitimate breeders throughout the country but there are just as many unscrupulous ones. There are no laws regulating who can and cannot breed. There are no inspections of their facilities. Even a certificate from a recognized kennel club means only that the breeder has “agreed” to its code of ethics. A piece of paper is simply that: a piece of paper.

Each time a dog is bought from an unscrupulous breeder, an abandoned dog moves closer to death in a pound.

Why, then, adopt a rescue dog?

There are tens of thousands of healthy, happy and balanced dogs available from thousands of rescue organizations across the country. Contrary to popular belief, they include purebreds as well as crossbreeds and mixed breeds. And for people intent on a specific breed, there are rescue groups devoted exclusively to a single breed of dog.

Adopting a rescue dog is saving that dog’s life. Rescue organizations are usually the last refuge for abandoned and abused dogs, surrendered and senior dogs. They are often a dog’s only escape from a puppy mill, shelter or pound. These rescued dogs are placed in loving and experienced, volunteer foster homes, where they are socialized with people and other animals.

They are spayed or neutered, de-wormed, updated on all of their vaccinations and microchipped. They receive whatever veterinary care they need, and are either trained or re-trained before being put up for adoption. And everything is included in the rescue’s modest adoption fees.

It is said that saving a dog makes that dog doubly grateful. By extension, then, anyone who saves a dog will be doubly blessed.

What better reasons could there be to adopt?


Have you thought of adding some new and different resolutions to your traditional New Year’s list?

Have you ever thought of getting involved in the world of dog rescue, but didn’t quite know how?

Here then, are twelve different ways – one for each month of the year – for you to resolve to make a difference in the lives of rescue dogs this year. Even if you choose only one, that choice will make all the difference in the world.

  1. Contact your local humane society or animal shelter and volunteer your services to them: from office work, to cleaning cages and kennels, to being a dog walker once a week.
  2. Donate a basket of dog items such as food, treats, bowls, toys and pee pads, together with either new or gently used collars and leashes, clothes and blankets to that same humane society or shelter.
  3. Contact a local rescue organization and ask to volunteer for them. Volunteers form the backbone of every non-profit group, and no group can function without them. Areas always in need of extra hands include reference checks, web site assistance, updating email lists, attending adoption events, planning and attending fundraisers, distributing flyers, pamphlets and brochures, and transport.
  4. Select one particular rescue online that “speaks to you” and make a monetary contribution to them – either as a onetime payment or as recurring monthly payments.
  5. Read about the other ways you can donate to them – from wish lists to links to various online stores’ web sites – and purchase items both for yourself and them that way.
  6. Follow that particular rescue’s Face Book page, and “like” them, “share” and comment on their postings regularly.
  7. Instead of accepting birthday gifts this year, ask your friends and family to make contributions to that rescue in your name.
  8. Host a small fundraiser (bake sales, garage sales and yard sales are among the most popular) and donate the proceeds to that rescue. You will receive not only their gratitude, but a tax receipt as well.
  9. At your place of work, keep a container on your desk with the name of that rescue on it, and encourage your co-workers to deposit their spare change in it. Once the container is full, bring the change to the bank (already rolled, please), mail a check to the rescue, and begin again.
  10. Sign petitions, both online and in person: one calling for legislation to ban puppy mills, and one calling on pet stores to stop selling dogs and cats.
  11. Foster a dog. Learn precisely what’s required of you, then welcome one very needy and deserving animal into your home temporarily, until he or she can be placed in a permanent home.
  12. Adopt a rescue dog and save two lives – the life of the one you are adopting, and the life of the one who will immediately take his or her place.

As for next year? Either continue working your way down this list, or resolve to draw up one of you own.

Article written by Nomi Berger. Nomi is the best selling author of seven novels, one work of non-fiction, two volumes of poetry and hundreds of articles. She lives in Toronto, Ontario, Canada with her adopted Maltese, Mini, and now devotes all of her time volunteering her writing skills to animal rescue organizations throughout Canada and the USA


front paw crosses your threshold for the first time, your home must be a health zone, not a hazard zone. Be especially attentive to the sensibilities of former puppy mill dogs or “outside” dogs. They may never have walked on wooden floors, carpets or tiles, or been exposed to so many new and unfamiliar sights before.

Begin the process of pet-proofing by walking through your home, room by room, searching methodically for things a dog might climb, knock over or pull down, and either secure, remove or store them. Keep all trashcans behind closed and latched doors and wastebaskets (covered if possible) out of sight. Ensure that all heating/air vents have covers. Snap specially designed plastic caps over electrical outlets. Tie electrical cords together and tuck them out of reach.

Install childproof latches to keep inquisitive paws from prying open cabinet doors in kitchens and bathrooms, and always keep the toilet lids closed. In bedrooms, keep all medications, lotions and cosmetics off accessible surfaces such as bedside tables. Store collections – from buttons, bottle caps and coins to matchboxes, marbles and potpourri – on high shelves, while keeping breakables on low surfaces to an absolute minimum.

Most chemicals are hazardous to dogs and should be replaced, wherever possible, with natural, non-toxic products. A partial list of toxic chemicals includes: antifreeze, bleach, drain cleaner, household cleaners and detergents, glue, nail polish and polish remover, paint, varnish and sealants, pesticides and rat poison.

Many indoor plants, however pretty, can prove poisonous to a dog. Since dogs are, by nature, explorers – not to mention lickers and chewers – protecting them from harm is essential. A partial list of such indoor plants includes: aloe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, azalea and rhododendron, chrysanthemum, corn plant, cyclamen, Dieffenbachia, elephant ear, jade plant, kalanchoe, lilies, peace lily, philodendron, pothos, Sago palm, schefflera and yew.

Seemingly harmless “people” food can potentially be lethal to dogs. A partial list of these includes: alcohol, avocado, chocolate, caffeinated items, fruit pits and seeds, grapes and raisins, macadamia nuts and onions.

Although prevention is the key to your new dog’s well being, accidents can and do happen. The truly protective pet parents are prepared pet parents and know to keep a list of vital numbers handy:

  • Veterinarian
  • 24-hour veterinary emergency clinic
  • ASPCA Poison Control: 1-888-426-4435
  • Pet Poison Helpline: 1-800-213-6680

Hopefully, these are numbers you’ll never use. And as long as you remain vigilant, both you and your new best friend can rest, assured.


The problem of dog overpopulation is a global one and requires a solution on a global scale. But like every journey that begins with a single step, this particular journey must begin with every dog owner in every town and every city in the country. Those conscientious owners who act responsibly by spaying and neutering their cherished family pets.
Spaying (removing the ovaries and uterus of a female dog) and neutering (removing the testicles of a male dog) are simple procedures, rarely requiring so much as an overnight stay in a veterinary clinic. Because half of all litters are unplanned, and because puppies can conceive puppies of their own, spaying and neutering them before the age of 6 months can help break this cycle.
According to SPAY USA, an unspayed female dog, her unneutered mate and their offspring (if none are spayed or neutered) result in the births of a staggering 12,288 puppies in just 5 years.
The inevitable outcome? Hundreds of thousands of dogs being euthanized through no fault of their own. Why? Because they are the tragic, but avoidable, result of over breeding and overpopulation. Why? Because there are too few shelters to house them and too few homes to either foster or adopt them. Why? Because there are still too many dog owners unwilling to spay and neuter their pets.
The positive effects of spaying and neutering far outweigh the negatives. Females spayed before their first heat are much less likely to develop mammary cancer than those left intact. Early spaying is also their best protection against conditions like pyometritis, a potentially fatal bacterial infection of the uterus, as well as ovarian and uterine cancers. Early neutering of males protects them against testicular cancer, and helps curb both aggression and other undesirable behaviors. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions, 70 to 76 percent of reported dog bite incidents are caused by intact males.
For years, reputable rescue groups have been spaying and neutering the animals in their care before even putting them up for adoption. More recently, in an effort to address at least part of this ongoing problem, various organizations — large and small, urban and rural, public and private — have been springing up across the country. From the ASPCA to local humane societies, spay/neuter clinics are opening and operating. Mobile spay/neuter clinics are reaching out to those unable to reach them. Many rescue groups now offer their own Spay Neuter Incentive Programs (SNIP), which provide assistance to low income households.
Imagine if there were more regional, local and mobile spay/neuter clinics. More Spay Neuter Incentive Programs. Imagine entire communities across the country, where every pet owner took personal responsibility for spaying and neutering their pets. Imagine what we, as part of the global community, could accomplish then.